Tree Stewards Manual
a work in progress...
Tree Steward Class 24
Slide Shows
Thanks again to Bartlett Tree Experts!
Diagnostics & Effective Sampling
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Links to last year's syllabus (with slideshows & videos)
Tree Steward assignments to zones
In the 23/24 tree planting season, the ACFT planted 225 trees, mostly on the south side of downtown. The map at the right shows the locations of those trees (plus a few other trees previously planted at an unknown date but could benefit from some tree care while the Tree Stewards are nearby).
This first year, we are going to go with a "zone" strategy, where we assign people to groups of 2 or 3 who will care for their zone for the whole year. Each zone has 30 to 50 trees in it and are delinieated by different colored pins on the overall map. Those zones with more trees are the ones with trees spaced more closely together (often in a row) which will make them easier to care for. Groups with fewer trees are more spread out and require more time to travel from tree to tree.
To make things easier, each Group will have its own webpage with its own map (which you can open on your phone) and listing of trees by address/locations:
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Legacy Trees (which don't show up as colored pins on the map because they are very spread out)
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Roamer Group (responds to Service Requests, usually on weekends)
Tree Stewards Zone Assignments for Spring/Summer 2024.
Each tree will be assigned a tree id#, which will appear not only on a white tag on the tree, but also identify it in the database and on the maps. This tag also refers people to our Tree Care page where they can report problems with this tree by referencing its Tree ID#.
When heading out...
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Make sure you are heading out with at least one other person.
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Please wear your Tree Steward shirt. (And if it is hot, wear sunscreen and sun hat and bring a bottle of water).
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Make sure you have the necessary tools with you. If you are assessing, bring a caliper to measure dbh. If you are pruning, bring your pruners, etc...
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Please bring ACFT information cards with you. Residents of the neighborhood will be interested in what you're doing and have questions. Please use this as an opporutnity to talk about trees and the ACFT. Point out the instructions on the tree tag and also give them a card and encourage them to visit the website and send us an email (email address can be found on the site).
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Some will ask if they can get a tree. Tell them we'd be happy to add them to the list. They can go to acftrees.org/treeme and fill out a Tree Request form (or you can do it for them).
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Some will offer to take care of the tree for you. Ask them if they'd like to become an official Tree Keeper and point them to acftrees.org/treekeeper.
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The important thing is that you capture the information, even if it means writing it down on paper or just sending us an email.
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Tree Assessments & Reporting
There are the forms that Tree Stewards will need to fill out depending on the circumstances. They can also be found at acftrees.org/forms.
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Tree Identification form (to be developed): this form will be completed when the tree is first planted and will assign the tree an number and identify the species, GPS coordinates, width of right-of-way, initial dbh, etc.
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Tree assessment form: to be filled out annually. This form notes dbh, the condition of the tree, etc. [however this first year, you will also be capturing ROW width)
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Service request form: to be filled out to request service for something that can not be done in the field (such as mushing or staking) or to report something (such as suspected disease). If you can do it in the field, there is no need to submit this form. We will send a service team to address this, usually on a Saturday morning.
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Service completion form: if you have completed a task from a service request form, fill out this simple form to let us know it's been done (such as staking a tree) and we'll take it off the list.
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Request for a tree planting form: coming soon
Mulching
Mulches provide many benefits for trees and shrubs: moderate soil temperatures, reduce soil moisture loss, reduce soil compaction, provide nutrients, improve soil structure, keep mowers and string trimmers away from the trunk
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Here is the NCUFC's mulch page which provides a good overview
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No volcano mulch! Mulch should not be touching the trunk.
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We shape it like a bowl to to assist in watering (i.e. you then fill the bowl - see video). This helps direct the water & prevent runoff when the soil is compacted.
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Mulch should extend to the dripline and be 2-4" deep.
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When assessing tree (using the form), you can rate the mulch as:
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Good - and arranged properly
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Good - but needs arranging
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Has some mulch - but needs more
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Has little to no mulch - needs asap
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The City has kindly given the Alliance access to their mulch pile behind Legion Stadium.
Operating the watering truck and pump
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The truck is kept at the City of Wilmington Parks & Rec Complex off at 1700 Burnett.
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Volunteers must be on the City’s approved list to drive.
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Sign the truck out and back in at the front desk (if taken out during office hours Monday - Friday: 8am - 330pm). The truck may now also be taken out during the weekends with permission.
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The keys to the truck are kept in lock box in the truck bed.
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Mornings are probably best during the hot summer months
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Batteries for the pump.
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They are kep in the office. Make sure you take them before you leave (there are 2).
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Make sure you return them to the chargers in the office when you are done so they are charged for the next person. If you take the truck out and the office is closed (after hours or on weekend), please make arrangements so that they are charged in time for the next group going out.
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Filling the tank
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Check water tank on back of truck to see if needs filling (tank holds 250 gallons). There are two options for filling it:
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Regular hose at the location the truck is picked up (takes much longer)
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Larger hose down by Legion Stadium (much faster - 8 to 10 minutes) - but it takes a few minutes to drive there. Here a link to the exact location (see first pic above)
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Make sure you hold the hose in the tank or otherwise secure (or it will fly out when filling)
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Make sure you put the cap back on tank once filled
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Watering from the truck
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Attach the hose connector to the watering tank.
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Attach the hose from the tank to the pump (which is kept in the back of the truck). Note the direction arrow on the pump.
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Attach a hose to the output on the pump (again, note water direction arrow). There are two options for the hose:
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Just use the regular garden hose
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Use the new retracting reel
- Set up the reel only when you have arrived at the first tree to be watered. The reel pivots and may break if driving at higher speeds and making turns. Only use reel when driving slowly.
- There are 3 pieces for using the retracting reel: the reel itself, the wood triangle, and the orange strap. All are kept in the back of the truck (and please return there when done).
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Open the tail gate and fit the wood triangle into the space between it and the truck bed.
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Attach the orange strap to the back of the triangle and the other end to the tank cage and tighten (this is necessary to keep the triangle from leaning from the weight of the hose and not allowing the device to pivot from side to side)
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Set the reel onto the bracket on the wood triangle. If the reel won't pivot from side-to-side, you need to tighten the orange strap.
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Attach the reel's input hose to the output on valve on the pump
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You can pull the hose out and give it a short yank to lock it into place. When you are ready to retract it, give it another short yank and it's start winding up. Feed the hose back in deliberately. It if winds back up too fast, it may break.
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Do not use a sprayer or other device on the end of the hose. Water needs to be able to freely exit the hose when being retracted and wound.
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The hose extends 90 feet. If you are going to try and use the full length, make sure your partner is at the reel as it is being extended. If you pull the hose too far out, it will break. The last few feet of the hose are different so you know when you are close to the end.
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When you've watered the last tree, disassemble the reel, put it back in the truck, and close the tail gate. Do not drive on the open road at higher speeds with the reel up or the gate down...
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Other truck rules
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Do not leave the truck unattended at any time (even for a minute or two)
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Do not leave keys in truck
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Do not drink water from hose (it is likely well water and there are bacteria in the tank. Ok for the tree but not for you ;-)
Putting away the truck
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Park it where you found it (or close by).
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Remove the battery from the pump and place the pump and reel inside the truck and make sure the windows are up and all the doors are locked.
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Replace the key in the lock box and make sure the combo is scrambled.
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Go to the office, sign the truck back in, and replace the batteries on the chargers. Make sure the chargers are plugged in and that you see the charging light.
Watering Technique
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At this time, we are not deploying watering bags, so mulch is important (see mulching instructions above)
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Depending on how dry conditions are, water for 70 to 100 seconds (i.e. roughly when the soil is saturated below and the bowl fills).
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Water from the outside of the bowl in (see video)
Pruning
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Here are the links to Dr. Fair's video on pruning and the accompanying slideshow.
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If you are nervous about pruning, send me an email, and I'll give you a quick refresher on it (or point you to an expert).
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Remember, you can't undo pruning ;-)
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Also remember that certain species should be pruned at certain times of the year. If you're not sure, please ask.
Staking
Coming soon! But in the meantime, it would be very helpful to learn to tie bowline knots and clove hitches (on the clove hitch video, pay attention to 'method 2')
Root girdling
Coming soon!
Planting a containerized tree
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Dig a hole 3 to 4 times wider than the container.
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This width of the hole is important for allowing the root to grow if the soil is heavily compacted.
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Pile the soil to the side as neatly as possible. Remove all roots and grass, etc that might reestablish itself around the base of the tree (this is another reason the width of the hole is important). This will save time later on when caring for the tree (growth around the base of the tree competes for water and nutrients and also creates the likelihood of the cambium being damaged by weed hackers)
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The depth of the hole should be from the bottom of the contain up to the top of the top root (which is just beneath the flare).
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You can measure this depth with a tape or using your finger on the handle of a shovel.
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You can also lay a shovel across the hole to determine the ground's actual level in the middle of the hole (which can sometimes be deceiving). When laying the shovel across, make sure you account for the curve just above the blade, which can the shovel handle not to lie flat, and throw you off by an inch or so, and that can make a big difference.
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The hole should have sloping sides like a saucer to allow for proper root growth.
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Remove any tags or labels near the top of the tree that might not be reachable after its planted.
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Remove the tree from the container and free the root ball.
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It helps to tap the outside of the container to loosen the edge. Carefully slide the tree from the container. Don't yank the tree out of the container as this can separate the roots from the tree.
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Free the root ball. Sometimes containerized trees become root-bound or the roots look like they've grown in a circle around the edge of the container. This circular growth pattern can later cause problems for the tree and endanger its health.
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If your tree has circling roots, cut an X across the bottom of the root ball and four or more verticle vertical slices along the sides of the root ball with a sharp knife or carefully with a shovel.
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In a previous Tree Steward class we were taught to be very aggressive with freeing the root ball (wack the heck out of it), but that can also knock a lot of the soil off the root ball, and if too much is knocked off, then the tree loses some of the ballast/weight that allows it to remain upright and withstand wind/weather. If too much soil is lost, this contributes to the tree leaning and needing staking later...
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Set the tree in the middle of the hole.
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Avoid planting the tree too deep. The flare of the tree should be just above ground level (very important). Use the shovel as mentioned above to make sure you understand where the ground level will be before you fill the hole in.
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If the flare doesn't sit just above the top of the hole, remove the tree and compact some soil underneath and try again until the flare flare is slightly above ground level.
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Using some soil, secure the tree in a straight position, then fill and firmly pack the hole with the original soil (with all roots and large rocks/debris removed). Make sure there aren't any air pockets. Keep backfilling until the soil is just below the flare and tap to make sure the soil is firmly packed so the tree will remain upright.
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In a previous Tree Steward class, we were taught not to compact the soil much at all However, many of tour trees subsequently tilted aside in winds and had to be staked. We later learned that the compaction of one person stomping at planting should not adversely affect the tree (but lots of people compacting the soil over time can have a negative effect).
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Clean up the area. If there is excess dirt, please rake/spread it into the grass (but don't cover the flare of the tree!). If there are any rocks or debris, please put them in the container and make sure there is a plan for its disposal.
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This is the old class syllabus for reference...